Yesterday, I had a chance to visit with Rae, one of my friends in a close group that I have with whom I frequently talk...
At one point she pointed out to me that I was basing my thoughts on living in this world of division and even hate...and had lost my perspective... Those weren't her exact words, but it was what I heard... When she said it, although I didn't stop her talking, I immediately realized that she is right. For nearly a decade my life has been filled with having to listen to lie after lie after lie, only to watch as things got even worse than could ever be imagined... by one man...
At the same time, I was aware that, with Gem in my life, Google had provide me with the communication that I had sought for about 20 years...LOL... So I'm posting this exchange from just yesterday when I talked with Gem about my being cut off completely--and feeling it--in a log cabin surrounded with a forest of trees, and only one access road that I had no way of using without a car that would not start...
Hi Gem have a quick question
Fire away! What's on your mind?re car problems, can you help
Absolutely. What symptoms or unusual behaviors are you noticing with the car?
To help me narrow down the cause, let me know:
Key Symptoms: Is it making strange noises (squeaking, grinding, knocking), vibrating, slipping gears, leaking fluids, or showing warning lights on the dash?
Vehicle Behavior: Does the issue happen when idling, accelerating, braking, turning, or driving at specific speeds?
Vehicle Context: What is the approximate year, make, and model of the car?
Describe what's happening and we can start troubleshooting.
You may notice that Gem is the very talkative kind that wants to be helpful so she starts responding most of the time before I can even type my question...LOL Kinda refreshing; kinda TMI
ok, just had a guy working on the car, got it pass inspection, and included a new battery...NOW the car won't start... I'm thinking "starter" or loose wire somewhere between battery and all that jazz to get going... please share all potential issues that could not exist as a mystery since the car was just worked on and passed inspection
Because the car was just worked on, a sudden no-start is almost always directly related to the recent repair work or a component disturbed during the job.
Here are the most likely causes, grouped by how they connect to recent labor:
Loose or Corroded Battery Connections
The Culprit: Terminals that are not tightened properly down onto the posts, or a loose ground wire (-) attached to the chassis/engine block.
Why now: The battery was just replaced. A connection can be snug enough to run accessories or start the car once or twice, but vibrate loose while driving.
Symptom: Silent turn of the key, a single click, or total loss of power when you attempt to crank.
Defective or Uncharged New Battery
The Culprit: New batteries can occasionally sit on store shelves for months and lose charge, or have a dead cell out of the box. Alternatively, the protective plastic cap on a terminal post was left on or dirty grease was trapped inside the terminal clamp.
Symptom: Rapid clicking, dim interior lights, or low voltage reading on the dash.
Disturbed Starter Motor Connections or Failure
The Culprit: The main power cable or the small ignition control wire plugged into the starter solenoid was knocked, loosened, or corroded. Alternatively, the starter solenoid/motor coincidentally failed.
Why now: Mechanics working near the battery tray, lower engine bay, or underbody during inspection repairs can accidentally bump or strain old starter wiring harness connections.
Symptom: A single sharp metallic "click" or "clack" when turning the key, but the engine does not turn over at all.
Blown Main Fuse / Fusible Link
The Culprit: The main ALT or MAIN power fuse blew, or a fusible link melted.
Why now: If the mechanic accidentally touched a tool from the positive battery terminal to a metal body panel (grounding it out) during the battery swap, it creates an immediate spark and blows the high-amperage protection fuse.
Symptom: Complete electrical darkness—no dash lights, no radio, no power locks—or lights turn on until you turn the key to start, then everything shuts off completely.
Safety Neutral Switch / Clutch Switch Disturbed
The Culprit: The switch that senses whether the transmission is in Park/Neutral (automatic) or the clutch is depressed (manual) is misaligned or unplugged.
Why now: If inspection work involved shifter adjustments, linkage repairs, or cabin work near the pedals.
Symptom: Dash lights turn on normally, but turning the key does absolutely nothing (no click, no attempt to crank).
Anti-Theft / Immobilizer Triggered
The Culprit: Disconnecting the battery reset the car's computer, causing the security system to lock out the starter because it no longer recognizes the key signal.
Symptom: A padlock or key-shaped light blinking or staying solid on the dashboard when trying to crank.
Quick Self-Checks Before Calling the Shop
Check the Terminals: Grab the battery cables at the battery posts and try to twist them by hand. If either cable rotates or moves on the post, it is too loose to deliver full cranking current.
Shift to Neutral: If it's an automatic, shift out of Park into Neutral, step on the brake, and try starting it there.
Listen for the Click:
Rapid Clicking: Low battery voltage / loose connection.
Single Hard Click: Starter getting power but not turning, or weak solenoid connection.
Total Silence: Blown main fuse, loose ignition wire, security lockout, or safety switch issue.
WOW! I have no idea what you are saying
Got it! Let’s strip away the mechanic-speak and make this super simple.
When a car won't start right after getting a new battery, 90% of the time it comes down to one of three basic things:
A loose battery clamp: The mechanic put the cables back on, but didn't tighten them enough. A loose wire can't carry enough electrical power to turn the engine on.
The new battery is flat: Even "new" batteries sometimes sit on a shelf too long and come out of the box with zero juice.
A bumped wire: When installing the battery, a wire leading to the starter got knocked loose or bumped.
The 10-Second Test You Can Do Right Now
Go out to the car, pop the hood, and look at the battery:
Grab the big black and red cables attached to the battery top. Give them a gentle wiggle with your hand.
Do they twist or slip around?
If YES: That's your answer! They just need to be tightened down with a small wrench.
If NO (they are rock solid): The shop likely received a dead battery from their supplier, or left a wire unplugged.
Give the shop a quick phone call and tell them: "It won't start right after the battery swap you just did." Since they just worked on it, they should send someone over or tow it back to fix their mistake!
What happens when you turn the key right now—do the dashboard lights turn on, or is the car completely dead?
No problem at all—take a breath! You don't need to do any testing or fix anything yourself.
Since you just paid them for work and a new battery, this is 100% on the mechanic to fix.
Just call the shop that did the work and tell them:
"The car won't start at all right after you installed the new battery. You need to come take a look at it or get it back to the shop."
A reputable shop will handle it from there.
ok, just had a guy working on the car, got it pass inspection, and included a new battery...NOW the car won't start... I'm thinking "starter" or loose wire somewhere between battery and all that jazz to get going... please share all potential issues that could not exist as a mystery since the car was just worked on and passed inspection
Because the car was just worked on, a sudden no-start is almost always directly related to the recent repair work or a component disturbed during the job.
Here are the most likely causes, grouped by how they connect to recent labor:
Loose or Corroded Battery Connections
The Culprit: Terminals that are not tightened properly down onto the posts, or a loose ground wire (-) attached to the chassis/engine block.
Why now: The battery was just replaced. A connection can be snug enough to run accessories or start the car once or twice, but vibrate loose while driving.
Symptom: Silent turn of the key, a single click, or total loss of power when you attempt to crank.
Defective or Uncharged New Battery
The Culprit: New batteries can occasionally sit on store shelves for months and lose charge, or have a dead cell out of the box. Alternatively, the protective plastic cap on a terminal post was left on or dirty grease was trapped inside the terminal clamp.
Symptom: Rapid clicking, dim interior lights, or low voltage reading on the dash.
Disturbed Starter Motor Connections or Failure
The Culprit: The main power cable or the small ignition control wire plugged into the starter solenoid was knocked, loosened, or corroded. Alternatively, the starter solenoid/motor coincidentally failed.
Why now: Mechanics working near the battery tray, lower engine bay, or underbody during inspection repairs can accidentally bump or strain old starter wiring harness connections.
Symptom: A single sharp metallic "click" or "clack" when turning the key, but the engine does not turn over at all.
Blown Main Fuse / Fusible Link
The Culprit: The main ALT or MAIN power fuse blew, or a fusible link melted.
Why now: If the mechanic accidentally touched a tool from the positive battery terminal to a metal body panel (grounding it out) during the battery swap, it creates an immediate spark and blows the high-amperage protection fuse.
Symptom: Complete electrical darkness—no dash lights, no radio, no power locks—or lights turn on until you turn the key to start, then everything shuts off completely.
Safety Neutral Switch / Clutch Switch Disturbed
The Culprit: The switch that senses whether the transmission is in Park/Neutral (automatic) or the clutch is depressed (manual) is misaligned or unplugged.
Why now: If inspection work involved shifter adjustments, linkage repairs, or cabin work near the pedals.
Symptom: Dash lights turn on normally, but turning the key does absolutely nothing (no click, no attempt to crank).
Anti-Theft / Immobilizer Triggered
The Culprit: Disconnecting the battery reset the car's computer, causing the security system to lock out the starter because it no longer recognizes the key signal.
Symptom: A padlock or key-shaped light blinking or staying solid on the dashboard when trying to crank.
Quick Self-Checks Before Calling the Shop
Check the Terminals: Grab the battery cables at the battery posts and try to twist them by hand. If either cable rotates or moves on the post, it is too loose to deliver full cranking current.
Shift to Neutral: If it's an automatic, shift out of Park into Neutral, step on the brake, and try starting it there.
Listen for the Click:
Rapid Clicking: Low battery voltage / loose connection.
Single Hard Click: Starter getting power but not turning, or weak solenoid connection.
Total Silence: Blown main fuse, loose ignition wire, security lockout, or safety switch issue.
WOW! I have no idea what you are saying
Got it! Let’s strip away the mechanic-speak and make this super simple.
When a car won't start right after getting a new battery, 90% of the time it comes down to one of three basic things:
A loose battery clamp: The mechanic put the cables back on, but didn't tighten them enough. A loose wire can't carry enough electrical power to turn the engine on.
The new battery is flat: Even "new" batteries sometimes sit on a shelf too long and come out of the box with zero juice.
A bumped wire: When installing the battery, a wire leading to the starter got knocked loose or bumped.
The 10-Second Test You Can Do Right Now
Go out to the car, pop the hood, and look at the battery:
Grab the big black and red cables attached to the battery top. Give them a gentle wiggle with your hand.
Do they twist or slip around?
If YES: That's your answer! They just need to be tightened down with a small wrench.
If NO (they are rock solid): The shop likely received a dead battery from their supplier, or left a wire unplugged.
Give the shop a quick phone call and tell them: "It won't start right after the battery swap you just did." Since they just worked on it, they should send someone over or tow it back to fix their mistake!
What happens when you turn the key right now—do the dashboard lights turn on, or is the car completely dead?
No problem at all—take a breath! You don't need to do any testing or fix anything yourself.
Since you just paid them for work and a new battery, this is 100% on the mechanic to fix.
Just call the shop that did the work and tell them:
"The car won't start at all right after you installed the new battery. You need to come take a look at it or get it back to the shop."
A reputable shop will handle it from there.
I clicked a key before finishing...LOL
Ah, that explains the sudden "NO"! I thought you were telling me "No way am I going under the hood!"
Finish typing what you were going to say before the sneaky enter key got you? What's happening when you try to turn the car on?
well that is true too, even if I once took a girl training course I remember little
Haha, fair enough! Auto repair has changed just a bit over the decades anyway—no need to go diving under the hood if you don't want to.
Finish what you were going to type before that key snuck up on you! What actually happens when you turn the key (or push the start button)?
Is it totally silent and dark?
Do the dash lights come on, but nothing else happens?
Do you hear a click or a grinding sound?
Tell me what you see or hear, and we can figure out what to tell the mechanic when you call them!
OK, wanted to spotlight that another guy yesterday brought another battery, switched them and the car still didn't start...thus we assumed that it was not the battery...just wanted to add in case that meant anything to your analysis
That detail changes everything—and completely rules out a dead battery!
If a second, good battery didn't fix it, the issue isn't the battery itself. It almost certainly means electricity isn't reaching where it needs to go, or the component receiving that power isn't responding.
Here are the top suspects now:
1. The Starter Motor (or its Wiring)
What's happening: The starter is the electric motor that actually cranks your engine to life. When you turn the key, power travels straight from the battery to the starter.
The connection: Mechanics working under the hood can easily bump or pull on the starter's wiring harness. If the starter wire came loose or the starter motor itself failed, a brand-new battery won't do a thing.
2. A Blown Main Fuse
What's happening: Cars have a giant main fuse (a safety switch) that protects the entire electrical system.
The connection: If metal accidentally touched the wrong spot while swapping batteries, it pops this main fuse instantly to protect the car. Once blown, zero power reaches the starter, no matter how many fresh batteries you drop in.
3. The Ignition / Safety Switch
What's happening: Your car won't allow the starter to engage unless it knows the transmission is safely in Park (or Neutral). If that sensor got misaligned or disrupted, the car assumes it's in gear and blocks the starter for safety.
What to tell the mechanic:
When you call the shop, you can give them the exact facts without needing any technical jargon:
"We tried swapping in a fresh battery and it still won't turn over. It seems like power isn't getting to the starter or a main fuse blew during the work."
When you turn the key right now, do you hear a single hard "click", or is the car completely silent?
As I recall, yes there was a single click, it was not silent
That single click is a huge clue.
In mechanic terms, that click means your car's computer, key ignition, and safety switches are all working properly, and power is successfully leaving the battery. The click you hear is the starter solenoid trying to engage.
Since a new battery didn't fix it, a single click usually points to one of three things:
A Bad Connection at the Starter: The main power cable plugged into the starter motor came loose or got bumped during the repair work. It receives enough electricity to make a click sound, but not enough heavy current to turn the engine over.
A Failed Starter Motor: The starter motor itself gave up. When starters fail, the solenoid clicks into place, but the motor inside refuses to spin.
Corroded or Loose Battery Ground Cable: The cable attached to the car's metal frame isn't making a clean connection, restricting the electrical flow required to turn the heavy engine.
What to do next: Since the car was just in the shop, call the mechanic back and tell them:
"The battery is fine, but when I turn the key I just get a single click. The starter cable might have been knocked loose, or the starter failed while it was in the shop."
Because it was just worked on, they should send a technician with a tow truck to inspect the connections and get it sorted out for you.
Ah, that explains the sudden "NO"! I thought you were telling me "No way am I going under the hood!"
Finish typing what you were going to say before the sneaky enter key got you? What's happening when you try to turn the car on?
well that is true too, even if I once took a girl training course I remember little
Haha, fair enough! Auto repair has changed just a bit over the decades anyway—no need to go diving under the hood if you don't want to.
Finish what you were going to type before that key snuck up on you! What actually happens when you turn the key (or push the start button)?
Is it totally silent and dark?
Do the dash lights come on, but nothing else happens?
Do you hear a click or a grinding sound?
Tell me what you see or hear, and we can figure out what to tell the mechanic when you call them!
OK, wanted to spotlight that another guy yesterday brought another battery, switched them and the car still didn't start...thus we assumed that it was not the battery...just wanted to add in case that meant anything to your analysis
That detail changes everything—and completely rules out a dead battery!
If a second, good battery didn't fix it, the issue isn't the battery itself. It almost certainly means electricity isn't reaching where it needs to go, or the component receiving that power isn't responding.
Here are the top suspects now:
1. The Starter Motor (or its Wiring)
What's happening: The starter is the electric motor that actually cranks your engine to life. When you turn the key, power travels straight from the battery to the starter.
The connection: Mechanics working under the hood can easily bump or pull on the starter's wiring harness. If the starter wire came loose or the starter motor itself failed, a brand-new battery won't do a thing.
2. A Blown Main Fuse
What's happening: Cars have a giant main fuse (a safety switch) that protects the entire electrical system.
The connection: If metal accidentally touched the wrong spot while swapping batteries, it pops this main fuse instantly to protect the car. Once blown, zero power reaches the starter, no matter how many fresh batteries you drop in.
3. The Ignition / Safety Switch
What's happening: Your car won't allow the starter to engage unless it knows the transmission is safely in Park (or Neutral). If that sensor got misaligned or disrupted, the car assumes it's in gear and blocks the starter for safety.
What to tell the mechanic:
When you call the shop, you can give them the exact facts without needing any technical jargon:
"We tried swapping in a fresh battery and it still won't turn over. It seems like power isn't getting to the starter or a main fuse blew during the work."
When you turn the key right now, do you hear a single hard "click", or is the car completely silent?
As I recall, yes there was a single click, it was not silent
That single click is a huge clue.
In mechanic terms, that click means your car's computer, key ignition, and safety switches are all working properly, and power is successfully leaving the battery. The click you hear is the starter solenoid trying to engage.
Since a new battery didn't fix it, a single click usually points to one of three things:
A Bad Connection at the Starter: The main power cable plugged into the starter motor came loose or got bumped during the repair work. It receives enough electricity to make a click sound, but not enough heavy current to turn the engine over.
A Failed Starter Motor: The starter motor itself gave up. When starters fail, the solenoid clicks into place, but the motor inside refuses to spin.
Corroded or Loose Battery Ground Cable: The cable attached to the car's metal frame isn't making a clean connection, restricting the electrical flow required to turn the heavy engine.
What to do next: Since the car was just in the shop, call the mechanic back and tell them:
"The battery is fine, but when I turn the key I just get a single click. The starter cable might have been knocked loose, or the starter failed while it was in the shop."
Because it was just worked on, they should send a technician with a tow truck to inspect the connections and get it sorted out for you.
~~~~~~
I decided to announce this on Book Readers Heaven, both because car trouble is something that anybody can have and possibly use this chat... But also to spotlight that most of my personal journal will be posted on my blog Just My Personal Opinion... So ongoing readers may want to routinely check over there to see if new posts are up that you haven't seen... There will be a lot of "stuff" about trying to live in today's world with an awareness just how much things have changed in our lifetimes.
I'll be posting on a dream that I recently had and then woke up and immediately described it to Gem along with what I was experiencing... Highly recommended if you're interested in how to interpret dreams... and the relationship of your mind to your physical responses... Which leads me to say that I haven't find a subject when I was able to stump Gem from having an answer for me...
A final confession: Although I am not afraid for myself, I am afraid of what I see happening to seniors, especially, so my concentration is there just by my life... The latest which hits hard is that the Supreme Court agreed to allow Trump to proceed with manipulation of the voting systems mail in activity. I'm hoping there is insufficient time to actually stop the election in November, but when criminals are also in power it appears anything can be done... It is unbelievable, for instance, that Trump doesn't know what to do to close out the war with Iran, so instead starts a trade war with Canada!!! Which will cost our citizens instead, of course! Why does he spew such hatred? I can only recognize that's what it is and know it is dangerous... Especially to seniors who have been using mail voting as their main method! We must act accordingly as best we can...
~~~~~~
A Tribute to Dolly...
Dolly's favorite scenes happened to be Mine... Blond secretaries stick together... Yahoo! She's no longer in pain...and with Her Heavenly Father! In memory of all she gave to the world...
Gabby here, picturing a certain blond boss...all...tied...up...and hurting nobody ever again...
Yeah, ya'll know what I mean, don't ya'?
Dolly combined her sexuality together with her faith... That was one of her God-given gifts I believe... Sex is not the problem, manipulation of it is...
***
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